Gianduja Ice Cream
Gianduja is Italian for “Holy Mother of God this tastes so amazing it has to be immoral.”
The real meaning isn’t actually that far off.
Gianduja is the name of a character originally created by a Genovese puppeteer, that subsequently became widely used in the Italian Commedia del’arte. This form of theater was popular from the 16th to 18th centuries, and featured stock characters in various scenarios, sort of like an old-timey sit-com. Gianduja means “John of the jug”. Fitting, as he loved his drinking. And eating. And pretty women.
Damn-the-consequences hedonism. Just like this ice cream.
Gianduja became the official carnival mask of Turin, the same city where an enterprising chocolatier mixed ground hazelnuts into his chocolate to extend his stock when cocoa supplies were short (Thanks, Napoleon!) and discovered it was fucking delicious. He named this confection Gianduja in honor of his city.
Two hundred years later, despite millions of dollars of research, scientists have been unable to determine just why it is so damn delicious. Some things are best left as mysteries, no?
John of the Jug. And Johnny of the Jug? And… their dog, I guess?
In any case, I love this stuff, so I made it into ice cream.
I will pause here for a cookbook recommendation. Chocolates and Confections by Peter Greweling, CMB, published by The Culinary Institute of America. This book is 1. gorgeous, 2. comprehensive as pertains to all things candy-like, 3. filled with actual science.
Perfect. Buy it.
I bring it up because it explains many things about gianduja - the home food processor method, the praline paste method, and what a commercially-produced gianduja gets you: namely, an already tempered, silky-smooth product.
For my first batch, I elected to go with the commercially available stuff. After a quick search online, I found some dark chocolate gianduja from Valrhona. Sold.
In the interest of full disclosure, my first batch was an utter fail. I tried for eggless gelato that wound up tasty, but icy and grainy. Blah. I am becoming more convinced that even my fancy-pants Italian ice cream machine doesn’t churn fast enough to make a truly smooth eggless, low-butterfat gelato.
My next attempt simply tweaked the standard ice cream custard (2 cups cream : 1 cup milk : 6 egg yolks). Because of the fats I was adding in the gianduja, I reversed the cream/milk ratio and backed off on the egg yolks by one. The custard was gorgeous, and I knew the ice cream would be smooth, creamy, and amazing.
It was.
Custard, thickening.
Shit You Need
8 ounces gianduja, commercially made, or otherwise.
5 large egg yolks
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
This is what “thick enough to coat the back of a spoon” actually means. You’re welcome.
Keep Calm and justeffingcook
Separate egg yolks into a medium-sized mixing bowl and set aside.
Cut gianduja into chunks, just small enough to help it melt. It’s a surface area to volume thing, says Dr. Science.
Heat milk, cream, sugar and salt in a medium saucepan (a saucier, if you have one) until steaming. Whisk the gianduja into the cream mixture, and continue whisking at a low simmer until it is fully melted and the mixture is uniform.
Whisk the egg yolks, and while whisking, pour the cream mixture in a steady stream until about 1/3 has been transferred, then reverse, pouring the egg mixture back into the cream while whisking the cream.
Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook gently until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (see helpful photo) - or about 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. It will be glossy and silky and fucking gorgeous.
Strain the custard through a fine mesh strainer into a clean bowl.
If you don’t plan on churning the custard until tomorrow, you can carefully place a piece of cling film right on top of the liquid (preventing a skin from forming, thereby fucking up your carefully strained mixture). Let cool at room temperature, then refrigerate overnight.
If you are jonesing for some ice cream later today, then put that bowl in a larger bowl filled with ice, and stir as it rapidly cools. This is the “stir over an ice bath step” you see in various recipes. Once cold, add the piece of cling film and refrigerate for 4 hours.
Churn in your ice cream machine per the manufacturer’s directions.
If you happen to have some Nougat de Montelimar, chop the shit out of it and sprinkle over the top when serving.
